2008 Barbaresco Vursu Vigneto Gallina

This is a neat little package—or big package, in the case of this wine, because it is only made in magnum—with ripe, raisiny intensity and black fruit written all over it. It should be noted that the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Gallina (Magnum) drifts a little flat and soft in the mouth at the moment, even after significant time in glass, but that almost seems irrelevant compared to the long-term picture here. This Riserva, built for the very long haul, promises to impress with its evolved floral and earthy tones that come through with clarity. The wine sees nearly three years of oak aging. A mere 600 magnum bottles were produced.

Aromatic nose combines currant, strawberry, mocha and spices in a rather southern French way. Then sweet and elegant, but without quite the depth or structure of the 2009 version. The strawberry element carries through in the mouth, joined by a strong oak component. With a bit less mid-palate stuffing, this finishes a tad dry.

The 2008 Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina bursts from the glass with a rush of dark fruit. This is one of the more reticent, powerful Gallinas I can remember tasting from La Spinetta. Dark flowers, mint, tar, licorice and French oak are some of the notes that resonate on the explosive finish. This is a wine that will require patience, but it is impressive for its completeness, something I haven't always been able to say about this wine.