1997 Chianti Classico Riserva Grosso Sanese

This wine does not deliver the intensity and multiple dimensions I have come to expect from this winery in top vintages. Nevertheless, it is a very good to excellent effort, with an emphasis on elegant, pure, kirsch, cherry, and raspberry fruit flavors, soft tannin, and a medium-bodied, round, tasty personality. It will not make old bones, so enjoy it over the next 4-5 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Deep ruby-garnet. Warm, roasted nose offers nicely fused fruit and vanillin oak. Soft and smooth on the palate, with good vigor and length, but a bit less concentrated and intense than one might expect from a vintage such as 1997. Finishes with polished tannins. Alessandro Sderci's wines do not always track the vintage charts: his 1986, for example, was notably better than his 1985. The light cabernet notes that I detected in the 1995 Grosso Sanese have fortunately disappeared.