2013 Brunello di Montalcino

Dark and earthy at first, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Luce slowly blossoms with a blend of minty herbs and balsamic spice, giving way to suggestions of plum sauce, cedar box and clove. This is round and soft, with depths of ripe red and blue fruit that flow across the palate with ease, carried by a stream of bright acidity. Medium in length, the 2013 finishes a bit hollow in feel, leaving adolescent tannins and a slight bitter tinge to linger as rosy inner florals fade. Despite its slightly underwhelming finale, the 2013 has matured quite well, and it's hard to imagine that the wine originally tasted by my predecessor came from a sound bottle.

The Frescobaldi family is behind this very handsome bottle from Tuscany. The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Luce is packed tight with brightness and sunshine. Compared to the family's other Brunellos made under the Castelgiocondo brand, this wine is more opulent, more concentrated and more modern or contemporary overall. It is designed to appeal to an international audience for sure and most certainly delivers the goods if you are looking for roundness, ripe fruit and thick texture. It is deliciously irresistible with bold cherry, exotic spice and tobacco. That bright acidity on the close will help the wine age carefully over the next 10 years.

Dark ruby. Candied, sweet nose with oak and the beginning of browning apple. Sweet and a little stewed but the palate is saved by quite a bit of acidity. Old-school, concentrated style. Did the oak make it oxidise so fast? (WS) (JR)