2019 Brunello di Montalcino

Jeweled ruby in color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is beautiful on the nose, displaying an elegant, layered profile in its classic and giving aromas of wild cherries, licorice, and wild roses. Medium-bodied but retaining good concentration, it has a chiseled, elegant structure, with mineral undercurrents driving the wine, and offers notes of blood orange, iron-rich earth, and tea leaf, as well as a long, mouthwatering finish. It has ripe tannins and a hint of warmth on the finish, but it’s going to have tremendous aging potential over the next 20 years or so. A wine that feels precise and true to the heart of Sangiovese and what great Montalcino can be all about, it’s a bit reserved right now and will take time to unfold all its layers. Drink 2026-2046. Today the historic property of Le Chiuse is run by Lorenzo Magnelli, who took over his family estate in 2006. The original vineyard land of the current property was used for the Riserva for Biondi-Santi, but when Tancredi Biondi-Santi passed away, the Biondi-Santi estate was divided between his son, who carried on the family’s winemaking tradition and received the largest section of the estate, and his daughter, who did not have a passion for wine, but promised her father to hold onto this smaller portion for the next generation. Lorenzo’s parents took over the winery with the first vintage in 1982 and changed the name to Le Chiuse in 1992. In the vineyard, Lorenzo has one of the most interesting philosophies with regard to harvesting for Brunello Annata versus the Riserva. Rather than select grapes from specific plots, or selections of barrels, he selects grapes from either side of the vine. He uses the smaller clusters from the same vineyards and the same vines that are coming from the cooler side facing the east, with the less harsh sunrise exposure, which creates a more austere selection, and the opposite side of the vines, which receive the more direct afternoon sun, goes into the Brunello Annata.

The organic Le Chiuse 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is shy to open and will require more time in your cellar before it hits its optimal drinking window. In its current stage, it shows dark fruit, smoky asphalt and wet stone. The initial impact is one of soothing darkness and aromatic concentration; however, the wine lightens up considerably on the palate with fresh acidity and fine tannins. This is a classic case of a Brunello that just needs more time to flesh out. Given its traditional and elegant personality today, it will improve tomorrow. Le Chiuse made 21,800 bottles this year.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is just a baby today, youthfully coiled and understated, with dusty dried flowers and nuanced violet pastille complementing wild strawberries and autumnal spice. It sweeps across the palate, lifted and refined, with a core of vividly ripe red and blue fruits that swirl throughout as vibrant acidity maintains balance despite gripping tannins that mount toward the close. This leaves a coating primary concentration as it finishes structured and long yet remarkably pure, ending with lingering licorice hints. Breathtaking.