2004 Barbaresco Vursu Vigneto Gallina

The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Gallina (magnum) is beautiful. Sweet herbs, menthol, tobacco, cinnamon, plums and red cherries wrap around the palate in a super-sexy, luscious Barbaresco loaded with personality. Tasted from magnum, the 2004 Riserva has barely budged. Readers lucky enough to own the magnums can look forward to another decade plus of exceptional drinking. The 2004 recalls a period in La Spinetta' s history when the wines were oakier, but now, after some years in bottle, all of the elements have come together nicely. A burst of super-ripe, opulent fruit rounds out the perfumed finish in this dazzling Barbaresco from La Spinetta.

This wine was tasted in a magnum. The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Vigneto Gallina offers sheer delight and power. The fine intensity and pristine quality of the bouquet could make you think the wine is younger than it really is. Smoked ham, licorice, dried flowers, rosehip, anise seed and balsam notes all stand to attention. The wine has evolved gracefully these past years and promises to continue down its glorious path. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035. Giorgio Rivetti has unveiled a stunning line of new wines, and a few surprises as well, from his impeccable winery and tasting room at the foot of the Grinzane Cavour castle. The line of Riserva Barbarescos and Riserva Barolo will only be bottled in magnums in the best vintages. The year 2004 is the inaugural vintage of these special releases. Giorgio purchased a beautiful estate in the Grinzane Cavour estate for making Barolo. His vineyard graces a dome-shaped hill and is planted with 55- to 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale, FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Good medium red. Sexy, complex aromas of strawberry liqueur, raspberry, iris, truffle, chocolate, mocha and menthol. Suave on entry, then full, lush, sweet and seamless in the middle palate, with subtle floral lift contributing to the impression of definition. Strong in extract and quite fine-grained in spite of its thickness. Finishes impressively long, with very suave tannins.