2006 Bolgheri Rosso Superiore Grattamacco

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese. The first vintage of what winemaker Luca Marrone refers to as the ‘new classical style’ due to the warmer climate – wines with more concentration and higher alcohol but also greater depth . Marrone said, ‘I experienced the resilient character of Grattamacco’s vines for the first time in 2006. I believe organic helps a lot; the vines achieve a balance. We never need to green-harvest Cabernet or Merlot. Sangiovese yields more generously so we usually have to thin the crop.’ After a rather severe, rainy winter, spring turned warm and sunny, with the result that vine growth proceeded well and flowering occurred late, between late May and early June. Thanks to scarce rains in June and July, fruit set was satisfactory, and although the lack of rain continued in August, veraison too was excellent. Lack of excessive temperatures prevented depletion of groundwater reserves necessary for optimal development of good crop levels and aromatic complexity. At harvest, which began in early September for Merlot, the grapes were sound and healthy, with ripe aromatic precursors, fine levels of phenolics, and good concentration in the berries. Copious rainfall on 15–16 September slowed ripening of the Cabernet Sauvignon which was picked a few days later. In 2006 there was a longer maturation and higher alcohol. 18 months in barrique. Bottle refinement 12 months minimum. Deep garnet. Firm, vigorous nose. Rich and sappy. Really fresh and velvety. Slightly dusty finish. (JR)