2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Black cherries, smoke, leather and licorice meld together in Uccelliera's 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. The flavors are dark and heavy throughout. Sadly, the 2008 Riserva is already oxidized and will never be in balance. The 2008 spent 42 months in oak, far too long for its inherent structure. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows mature tones of raisin, dark fruit, juniper and touches of smoked meat or bresaola. Wood-driven tones of spice, tobacco and leather fill in the rear. There’s a tight sense of austerity or sharp tightness that is characteristic of wines from the 2008 vintage. Drink: 2016-2026. As I have said elsewhere in this report, Andrea Cortonesi is one of my favorite Brunello producers. He is also one of the first estates I visited years ago as a young wine writer and it has been a privilege to watch his career take off in such spectacular fashion. I remember his small basement winery on that first visit and every time I go by his property today, I am surprised and encouraged by signs of recent construction and expansion. If anyone embodies the amazing growth of Brunello di Montalcino that person is Andrea. Importers: Marc De Grazia Imports, www.marcdegrazia.com

Deep, ruby with narrow orange rim. Balsamic spicy nose and dramatic rich fruit with just a little acidity on the finish. Rather tannic. (WS)