2005 Corton Le Rognet

A 2005 Corton Rognets from middle-aged vines in deep, iron-rich soil offers blackberry and mulberry fruit aromas with high-toned sage and spice nuances. This is one of the few Giroud wines (along with a Gevrey En Champs that could not be fairly evaluated) to be significantly stunted by reduction. Still, there is an undeniable density and reservoir of ripe, fresh fruit, and this should come around impressively. Readers are referred to Pierre Rovani’s report in Issue 160 for details on the acquisition of this house in 2002 by Ann Colgin and a group of Americans, and on Becky Wasserman’s directorial role. At only around 4,500 cases, 2005 will represent their largest production yet, “and we’ll stay small,” says young, manifestly-talented winemaker David Croix. Croix works intensively in the vineyard with most of his suppliers. He ages the wines largely in newly-purchased but once-used barrels, augmented by a low percentage of new casks. I tasted all of the wines immediately prior to their first racking which was late, explains Croix (despite malo-lactic fermentations early by 2005 standards), because the quality of the fruit deserved the enrichment and protection of long lees contact and a slightly reduced state. They will be bottled without filtration in March or April. Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.

(one of three barrels was new) Good red-ruby color. Spicy redcurrant, tobacco and spicy oak on the nose. Very rich, sweet and fat, but with lovely finesse for such a big boy. This is round and opulent for young Corton, not to mention flamboyant in the early going. Finishes very ripe, with sweet tannins and very good length.