2016 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia

The Lisini 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia is focused and precise, and yet it also shows a layered and very generous display of dark blackberry fruit and summer ripe plum. It delivers good contouring with a frame of spice, cedar and sweet tobacco around a soft and supple core. However, if I describe this wine as rich and concentrated, I don't want to get ahead of myself because, in fact, the end result is quite streamlined, tight and even dusty. Ugolaia has a few surprises up its proverbial bottle sleeve in this 8,000-bottle release.