2019 Chianti Classico

This is a distinctive and fun wine that cements Giovanni Manetti's growing fondness for the high-elevation Lamole area of the appellation that has always been regarded as somewhat detached or isolated from the rest of the appellation. In the face of climate change, the authenticity of Lamole, and its cooler growing conditions, are an important asset. Manetti tells me that 2018 was a good year, but it rained more and was generally harder to manage. The 2019 vintage is classic, with balanced results thanks to regular weather patterns. The organic 2019 Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole speaks to a wine style that is winning over those who love elegant Sangiovese. The wine is punchy and bright with a pretty array of wild cherries, blue flowers and dusty mineral. Manetti says he remembers how those same fresh aromas filled the winery during fermentation. Fruit comes from a nine-hectare property at 600 meters in elevation owned by a cousin. But Fontodi also recently acquired more vineyards in Lamole to grow this program.

The 2019 Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole is fruity, open-knit and delicious, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. The mix of forward fruit and freshness from this high altitude site works so well. Bright red/purplish fruit, rose petal, mint and spice linger. This is such a classy wine.

Lamole. 100% Sangiovese. Certified organic. Lustrous ruby with orange tinges. Brooding nose with sweet earthy notes. This is from a single, high-elevation vineyard in Lamole, but seems more plush than Fontodi's regular 2019 offering. Deep, concentrated pure cherry palate of amazing length and with lots of juice and persistent gravelly, clinging tannins on the finish. Closes up quickly so needs more time. (WS)