2020 Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses

Chanson owns over 5 ha in Vergelesses. Cask sample. Rich, sumptuous nose, very different from the Pernands of old. Sweet and smooth and almost New World! Fine tannins on the finish. Lots of fun but perhaps not terroir purity? More 2020 than Pernand? (JR)

A bit reticent at first, but opens with a bit of time to show a dark plummy fruit with an earthy edge. The wine is tannic and slightly rustic in nature, but with a bit of time to round out in bottle it should show well. Chanson has more than 5ha here planted to Pinot, and another 2ha to Chardonnay. The soils are fairly heavy clay, but the southeast-facing slopes ripen fruit well—some lots came in above 14.5%. The grapes are partially destemmed and gently fermented.

On the nose, this is unlike any other red Burgundy I can remember, thanks to the olive-tapenade aroma that accompanies the deep blackberry fruit. There’s some smoke and a hint of fire embers, too. A dense and quite robust wine for this appellation, and it will need some time to integrate the firm structure. But impressive concentration. Almost monumental on the finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.