2020 Meursault Les Perrieres

The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières unwinds in the glass with a classic bouquet of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, white flowers, wet stones and struck match. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's concentrated and tensile, with the most grip and cut of any wine in the range, concluding with a long, resonant finish.

Vertical and explosive in the glass, the 2020 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru dazzles from the very first taste. It offers a beguiling mix of rich fruit and deep layers of saline minerality. Time brings out striking mid-palate depth that will continue to emerge over time. The Perrières is simply mesmerizing, a magical wine that captures all the pedigree of this site. The 2020 won’t be released for quite some time, continuing the recent practice of keeping this wine in the cellar for a few years first. Like many of his colleagues, Roulot is troubled by the massive speculation in prices for his top wines. I am not sure what holding a wine back does for that, if anything, speculation will be even more feverish for a wine with a few years of bottle age, in my view. “True, but at least we will be talking about a wine that has a bit of age on it,” Roulot says. “I know most of my wines are drunk upon release, but I am vinifying for the 10% of people who age them. (Tasted by Antonio Galloni)