2005 Corton Clos du Roi

The 2005 Corton Clos du Roi offers lightly cooked and caramel-tinged black raspberry and plum as well as high-toned herbal notes, and comes onto the palate broad and beefy, with firm, fine tannins and a strong, chalk-inflicted finish. This will be slow to show its full potential, and should be revisited soon after bottling, and then again 5-7 years down the pike. Readers are referred to Pierre Rovani’s report in Issue 160 for details on the acquisition of this house in 2002 by Ann Colgin and a group of Americans, and on Becky Wasserman’s directorial role. At only around 4,500 cases, 2005 will represent their largest production yet, “and we’ll stay small,” says young, manifestly-talented winemaker David Croix. Croix works intensively in the vineyard with most of his suppliers. He ages the wines largely in newly-purchased but once-used barrels, augmented by a low percentage of new casks. I tasted all of the wines immediately prior to their first racking which was late, explains Croix (despite malo-lactic fermentations early by 2005 standards), because the quality of the fruit deserved the enrichment and protection of long lees contact and a slightly reduced state. They will be bottled without filtration in March or April. Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.

Good deep red. Medicinal raspberry, menthol and sexy smoky oak on the nose. Then distinctly serious and a bit wild in the mouth, mixing flavors of red berries, spices and menthol. This is classic, youthfully austere Corton, finishing firmly tannic and backward, with notes of menthol, spices and red licorice.