2017 Brunello di Montalcino

Day one:  Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. A subdued nose that is slow to open up. Some considerable concentration reveals itself with aeration. Balsamic more than fruity at this moment. A polished, suave red-fruit palate that is still a little embryonic and with integrated, tangy acidity and finely ground tannins. Seems to veer off the usual Biondi-Santi style, in that it is less edgy, nervous and austere. That could be due to the hot year, but it certainly is well balanced. Day two:  The nose doesn’t show any deterioration from having been opened 24 hours previously. Quite pure, focused and concentrated but, at the same time, poised, with minerally notes of earth and just a hint of tobacco. Elegant and polished on the palate, with the tangy acidity almost completely integrated. Long and a little mouth-filling and focused. Seems softer than in previous vintages, but no less robust. Day three:   A little broader and more open on the nose, with rich red fruit; but the palate is taut and the red fruit a little more tangy and with long, well-behaved tannins. (WS)

Sweet berry, orange peel, cedar, bark and forest flower aromas follow through to a medium to full body, with linear and fine tannins and a crunchy undertone. It’s very subtle and fresh for a 2017. Crisp and vivid. It’s refined and acid-driven. Needs three to four years more to soften.

The 2017 Brunello Di Montalcino is surprising in its freshness, considering the warmth of the vintage, and speaks to the cooler, northern-facing exposition of the estate. It is refined with ripe red cherry, raspberry, anise, and incense and is fresh with cherry fruit, warming spices, macchia, and herbes de Provence. It is ripe though it maintains a medium frame, with well-managed tannins and balanced acidity. It is a lovely and charming wine and is rather approachable now. Drink 2024-2040.