2017 Amarone della Valpolicella

The current release. A tour de force, despite the sheer morass of palate-staining fruit. The malty oak is evident, yet operates as a welcome adjunct to corral and compress the swashbuckle of coffee grinds, beef bouillon, mint, leather varnish and saturated dark cherry liqueur, into a sheath of tension as much as sheer power. Grapes are dried for 70-80 days. This may seem obvious initially, but as one works it out in the glass and across the inner gums, the multitudinous layers become evident. A wine that shape-shifts and beguiles, as much it wrestles with the senses. Excellent. Drink or hold.

With the 2016 still being held for release down the road as it slowly comes into focus, today it's the 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta that is being released into the market. This is dark, sultry and almost animalistic in nature, as crushed fall leaves and earth tones open the experience, giving way to masses of macerated black cherries, cedar shavings, spiced cookies and a lifting hint of camphor. It floods the palate with velvety textures while maintaining fantastic energy, as stimulating acidity adds unexpected vibrancy, and tart wild berries slowly saturate. While structured, the tannins are sweet, and the wine remains remarkably fresh, almost crunchy, as an air of inner rose and balsam herbs slowly fades. Frankly, I can't believe the 2017 finished at 16% abv, because it is simply so palatable and charming.

The bitter edge of Amarone is clear here, along with a powerful purity of black cherry, autumnal berry and pomegrante fruits, crushed biscuits, tar, woodsmoke, cocoa bean, espresso, cinammon and black pepper spice, with a burst of kirsch. A beautiful wine that is going to power through the decades. 34ha etate from winemakers Romano and Marco Dal Forno, first time on the Place de Bordeaux.