1990 Corton Clos du Roi

While the 1990 Corton-Clos du Roi displays the same weight, ripeness, and expansive perfume as the Corton-Renardes, it is more structured and slightly longer on the palate. For that reason, it will probably last for at least a decade. I have been tasting the wines of Prince Florent de Merode (one of Burgundy's most historic and magnificent estates) since 1978. The 1990s are the best wines this domaine has produced. Whether it is coincidence or not, the domaine stopped filtering its wines in 1990. The style tends to be a delicate one that aims to achieve seductive aromas and flavors in an elegant, soft style. The wines rarely possess much color. Even in a highly pigmented vintage such as 1990 the Merode wines are less saturated than others. Yet the lightness of color can be deceiving, for these particular wines are opulent and rich. They also appear to be meant for near-term drinking rather than extended cellaring. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT.