2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a stunning wine and an archetype of classic Sangiovese from Montalcino. I could drink this wine all day if it weren't so expensive. This Riserva is extremely fine and nuanced with the thinnest of fibers that wash over the palate like fine silk. Certified-organic fruit shapes aromas of cassis, cranberry, peony, tea leaf, orange and rusty nail. The aromas are tight and contained, yet they become increasingly expansive and expressive as the wine opens in the glass. It has contained power and, most importantly, a relatively moderate 14% alcohol, which makes all the difference in terms of balance and elegance. 8,000 bottles were made.

Still youthful-looking ruby. Lift, intensity and complexity on the nose. Intense yet supple on the palate with maraschino cherry and strawberry. Great purity and concentration without being heavy. Underlying powdery tannins adding energy. Spectacular. (WS)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dark and brooding in its youthful state, offering up a seductive bouquet of dried cherries, currants, cloves and dusty flowers, like opening a cedar incense box lost many years ago. It coasts silken waves of textural red berries and liquid florals across a core of bright acids, becoming spicier and violet-tinged as it travels across the palate. The inner harmony and elegance achieved here is remarkable, as if there is not a hard edge in sight, yet it is structured and savory – almost salty, even. A full minute goes by and hints of licorice, pomegranate and cinnamon still linger on. As motivating and lively as this is today, it will require a number of years in the cellar to show its best. The 2016 Riserva is stunning from start to finish.