2017 Messorio

The 2017 Messorio is also forward with a floral perfume of red apple, candied plum, mocha, and roses. It is full-bodied but lifts weightlessly off the palate and delivers a stony mineral flourish. It also has freshness on the finish without having any harsh edges, with ripe but present tannic structure. It is drinking beautifully now or will drink well over the next two decades. One of the benchmark wineries of Bolgheri, Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli purchased the estate in 1983 and planted their first four hectares of vines. Today, Cinzia Merli is joined by her two sons, Elia and Mattia, who work together to run the estate. Their holdings now consist of ten parcels, eight in Bolgheri and two in Bibbona, just to the north. In the vineyards, they practice organic farming while also implementing some biodynamic practices. Paleo Rosso’s first vintage was in 1989, before becoming exclusively dedicated to Cabernet Franc in 2001. Today, they make some of the most compelling ranges of single varietal wines. Messorio is dedicated to Merlot, Scrio to Syrah, and Paleo Rosso to Cabernet Franc.

The 2017 Messorio (100% Merlot) is classy and polished to the core. It is also incredibly young and not at all forthcoming. Messorio is a wine that needs a surprising amount of time in bottle to truly shine. I expect that will be the case here as well. Today, the 2017 is all about fruit and density. Time in the cellar should allow for its aromatics to emerge more fully. Overall, though, this is a fairly restrained style, in keeping with the showing of 2017 Bolgheri reds more broadly. All the elements come together so gracefully in this striking wine. Production is down around 20%.

Messorio is a wine that beautifully reflects the characteristics of the vintage and is a very accurate measuring stick of how any single vintage will eventually perform both in terms of near-term accessibility and long-term cellar aging. That said, the Le Macchiole 2017 Messorio plays its strongest cards in terms of mouthfeel and texture, revealing a robust structure and firmly integrated tannins that come from both the richly concentrated fruit and the careful use of oak. The wine shows a heavy center of gravity and a solid base of dark fruit that is enhanced by caramel, brown sugar, spice and creamy blackberry preserves. It does offer immediate appeal, but I'd wait a few more years to give this 2017 Messorio more time to flesh out and evolve.