2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento

Poggio al Vento is only produced in exceptional vintages from a selection of the best grapes form a seven-hectare area of old vines. The 2013 Poggio al Vento Brunello Riserva exhibits buoyant and lifted aromatics on opening, with fresh red plum, dried Mediterranean herbs, dried roses, and dusty earth. The palate is more linear with tangy, red plum fruit, tea leaf, and thyme. The 2013 still has a ton of tannin grip, but acidity holds the edge here. It was aged for four years in French and Slavonian casks before bottling. Enjoy over the next fifteen years, 2022-2036. Col’dOrcia is owned and managed by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. His father arrived in 1973 in Montalcino, where he established the winery. In 2010, Francesco moved to organic certification. Located in the south, just north of the Orcia river, their property has greater exposure to the air coming off the ocean and the Mediterranean climate, so they are always the first in the region to harvest. The vineyards feautre a high concentration of clay soils, with a vein of marine sediment that runs through the property. The Vigna Nastagio has tight clay soils with high pH, creating concentration and freshness. Poggio al Vento comes from a 7-hectare plot from which they select the best fruit for their Riserva bottlings.

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is coy at first, brooding, with dark dusty florals, exotic spices and a hint of brown sugar; yet time in the glass allows it to blossom and show its inner beauty, as wave after wave of crushed strawberry, cherry and sweet violets lifts from the glass. On the palate, soft textures envelop the senses in sweet and savory red berry fruits, so silky and refined, as it seems to hover weightlessly, while saline minerals and youthful tannins begin to saturate all that they touch. The finish is long and structured, closing in upon itself, tugging at the cheek and reminding me that this wine is just a baby today. Simply stunning, yet in need of five to ten years of cellaring to show its best. Wow.

Single vineyard. Tasted blind. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Minerally nose and soft, zesty, lively fruit. Great depth and length and with delicious, chewy tannins. (WS)