2019 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

(from a 2.24 ha holding that is divided between Pied d’Aloup, Côte de Bréchain and Chapelot). Pale color. An admirably pure, airy and decidedly cool nose features notes of acacia, citrus zest and mineral reduction. The wonderfully refined, chalky and stony medium weight flavors possess really lovely underlying tension and fine detail while delivering excellent length where the only nit is a touch of warmth. This too will need to add depth, but the quality of the underlying material appears up to the task. 2025+

40–50% fermented in French oak barrels (aged 6 years on average). The remainder is vinified in small stainless-steel vats. Aged 13–14 months, of which 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 40 to 50% of the harvest. The end of maturation occurs in small stainless-steel vats. Tank sample. Very creamy on the nose, marked by the lees and gentle oak. Fresh citrus and almost something floral, like blossom, as well as stony/mineral character. Rich, deep and lively. Generous with a good acid backbone, even if it is a little softer than the Vaillons. (JH)