2019 Le Difese

First vintage 2002, originally produced for the local market, but tourists returning home began asking their importers for the wine, so expanded. Production has, since 2017, been reduced back to 300,000 bottles to control quality of bought-in fruit. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Sangiovese – a higher proportion of Sangiovese in this particular vintage (around 30% is typical) due to vintage variation rather than a change in style. Cabernet used is the remainder after blending Sassicaia and Guidalberto, plus some bought-in fruit. Sangiovese is also bought in from central Tuscany, with the total non-estate fruit comprising around 50%. TA 5.5 g/l, pH 3.45, RS 0.12 g/l. Surprisingly pale – more Pinot-like than a Cabernet blend! A sweet-sour red-cherry fruit profile, with a notable herbal edge, perhaps reflecting the higher Sangiovese proportion than 2018. On swirling, some cassis joins the party and there’s a background woody, cinnamon note. That sweet-sour sense comes through on the palate too, with a ripeness of red cherry and strawberry cut through with acidity. Pretty fine-grained, powdery tannins that are more refined than previous Le Difese vintages I have tasted. A touch of alcohol on the finish, but overall an enjoyable, perfumed red. (TJ)