2011 Chablis Bel Air et Clardys

The De Moor 2011 Chablis Bel Air et Clardy features a pungent amalgam of crisp, ripe apple with fennel, lemon and parsnip on the nose as well as on an oily-rich yet incisive palate. The finish here may downplay elements that compel one to reach for mineral descriptors, but it's forcefully complex, refreshingly juicy and prodigiously persistent. I anticipate versatile distinction through at least 2018. (Attentive readers may note that there used to be an ampersand between the two vineyard names on this label; apparently, the "et" is needed to help technically avoid falling afoul of the regulation that forbids labeling of a Chablis with any vineyard name not that of a premier or grand cru.) High up in Courgis, Alice and Olivier De Moor were not impacted by 2012 frost, though that scarcely means that their vintage was unproblematic. Oidium and mildew required repeated treatments and the harvest a certain selectivity, but in the end yields were nearly equal to those of 2011 - and consequently, alcohol levels no higher - while quality was, as usual for them but increasingly so as years go by, impressively over-achieving by any standards, let alone those of appellation. (A potentially impressive but already 14% alcohol 2012 Saint-Bris was too far-removed from completing its fermentation at the time of my visit to more fully assess.) The 2012 harvest did not begin here until the last days of September, but what hung was, by the De Moors- testimony, almost entirely healthy fruit. With the exception of a Saint Bris whose virtues are largely vitiated by its high volatility - and there are sometimes wines that get away, given their high-risk, hands-off cellar approach - the De Moors' 2011s are brashly, very distinctively, and in a couple of instances memorably delicious. These were, for the most part, not bottled until late last or early this year. A continued investment is being made here, incidentally, in new demi-muids - of Austrian as well as French origin - that seem to suit the De Moors' intentions for Chablis, Bourgogne Chitry and old vines Aligote. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

Light straw-yellow. High-toned aromas of orange oil, spiced apple and lees. Musky and high-toned on the palate, with very good breadth and a tactile mouthfeel to its apple and spice flavors. Shows some slightly resiny and toasty suggestions of development. I find this a bit exotic, if not rustic, and more evolved than the Vendangeur bottling. Where can it go in bottle?