2010 Chablis Valourent

The 2010 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru from William Fevre has a zen-like bouquet, very taut, with citrus peel and light Granny Smith apple scents, though it lacks the charm and personality of the Tête de Murgers from Javillier tasted alongside. The fresh palate delivers lip-smacking salinity, though I would have preferred more persistence on the finish. Good, but not great. Tasted at Hatched restaurant in London.

This is every bit as refined as the Montée de Tonnerre and just as complex with its aromas of dried flowers, wet stone, citrus and tidal pool. This sense of refinement extends as well to the big, rich and beautifully complex broad-shouldered flavors that explode in a hugely long finish that completely stains the palate with dry extract. This pure and chiseled effort is quite simply terrific.

The 2010 Chablis Vaulorent is striking. It shows plenty of richness but very little in the way of excess weight. There is plenty of depth waiting to emerge from this expressive, mineral-drenched Chablis. Mint, flowers and white stone fruits wrap around the pure, beautifully delineated finish.