2016 La Tache

The 2016 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 24–25 at 31hL/ha (the highest of the five crus ). It has an utterly sublime bouquet of blackberry, briar, crushed limestone, a dash of cracked black pepper and a little oregano. This is extremely complex and displays exquisite focus, to the extent that you could just sit and nose it all day. The palate is beautifully balanced, the spicy red fruit framed by filigreed tannin that belies its backbone. There is a gentle crescendo from start to finish, though being La Tâche it retains complete control. The precision and detail in the final third are deeply impressive. Less fruit-forward than the 2015, and lightly spiced, with an insistent grip. There is a captivating sense of completeness that will ensure longevity through three or four decades. 1,814 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in-bottle tasting in London.

Vines aged 51 years. 31 hl/ha. Harvested 24–25 September. Bottled April/May 2018. 1,814 dozen produced. Lightish ruby. Gorgeously scented with the most seductive, intense and lightly spicy dark-red fruit. A little more spice here. And something almost dusty – a dry mineral note that is tangled up with a hint of vanilla and sweet spice. The tannins are compact, firm, dry but paper-fine and many layered. Amazing density and fewer aromatic signs of whole-bunch. Deep and more savoury as it builds in the mouth. It is not so much long as increasingly present after you have no more wine in your mouth, like a presence that remains after someone has left the room. (JH)