2018 Grand Puy Ducasse

I still harbor some reservations about the 2018 Grand Puy Ducasse, principally because the oak needs to be slightly more assimilated on the nose, where it continues to occlude the fruit profile. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and plenty of freshness; here, this Pauillac seems more settled. The harmonious, pencil lead and marine-tinged finish fans out gently. I guess another 2–3 years should ensure that the oak becomes fully subsumed, and if so, this should evolve into a respectable Grand Puy Ducasse.

The 2018 Grand Puy Ducasse is just as impressive as it was en primeur. Readers will find a heady, richly textured Pauillac loaded with character. Technical Director Anne Le Naour and consulting oenologist Hubert de Bouärd coaxed tremendous richness from the 2018 while avoiding some of the excesses of the recent past. The result is a wine that delivers on all levels. Succulent dark cherry, plum, mint, licorice, sweet spice and a touch of new oak build into a striking crescendo on the lush, persistent finish.

52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot. Deep ruby colour. A little austere and reductive on the nose with hedgerow fruit. The palate is better, with medium-weight red fruits and an initially rounded mouthfeel. Sandy, firm tannins build through to the finish, which is spicy but a little pinched. (TP)