2017 Criots Batard Montrachet

Maison Roche de Bellene is one of Burgundy’s top negociants run by the hugely talented and experienced Nicolas Potel. Born into one of the finest domaines in Burgundy, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, Nicolas not only worked on his family estate but also for other top estates including Domaine Georges Roumier. In his youth he worked further afield including spells at Mount Mary and Moss Wood - two of the finest producers in Australia - before setting up his own negociant business sourcing parcels from top vineyards in Burgundy. Nicolas is without doubt one of the most experienced and knowledgeable vignerons working in Burgundy today and listening to him talk about each vintage and vineyard is a real masterclass in the current state of affairs in contemporary Burgundy. With his connections and knowledge of the region, he is perfectly placed to identify and source great cuvees for his negociant business. Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is positioned at 250 metres altitude on a gentle slope with a south-eastern aspect. Like its neighbouring Grand Crus, it contains a lot of stony terrain which provides the all-important mineral tension one looks for in the finest of white Burgundies. Clay levels in the soil are around 30% which brings an added elegance and silkiness to the wine. This is the smallest and rarest of the Montrachet Grand Crus. There is universal praise across the board for the 2017 white Burgundies. Whilst they share the nervy, mineral-driven verve of wines from the classic 2014 vintage, these have a slightly softer, more approachable feel whilst not suffering the surmarité of other recent solar vintages. Nicolas believes the vintage surpasses the 2014 and compares it to 1996 and 2002, having that rare combination of both ripeness and vibrant acidity. This combination of mineral verve and succulent approachability makes it a white Burgundy vintage to buy with confidence. There is a lovely mineral smokiness to this wine – flinty and serious yet aligned with juicy, soft, succulent, mouth-watering fruit flavours of ripe pear, white peach and pink apple. The silky multi-layered texture builds in the mouth becoming richer and broader on the palate with a lovely energy and pulsating presence on the long length. Exceptional.