2016 Chablis Butteaux

The 2016 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru is much more closed and broody than its sibling Premier Crus at the moment: earthy, almost mulch-like aromas developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced and quite saline on the entry, hints of blackcurrant developing in the glass with disarming poise and grace towards the finish. Give this Butteaux a couple of years in bottle at least because the aromatics will require time.

Raveneau's 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux is excellent, offering up a youthfully reserved bouquet of apple, white peach, beeswax and dried flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with lovely texture, considerable mid-palate amplitude and a bright line of acidity, concluding with a firm, salty finish that balances its somewhat gourmand attack. Along with the Vaillons, the Butteaux stood out as one of the most complete of Raveneau's premiers crus this year, revealing more and more nuance over several days. Right now, it's quite closed, but I won't be surprised if it becomes quite musky and exotic after a few years in the cellar.

(from 40- and 55-year-old vines): Bright, light yellow. A bit more subdued on the nose than the Montée de Tonnerre, offering scents of citrus fruits, white peach, menthol and resiny herbs. More minerally and classic on the palate, conveying a dry, tight impression to its almost minty lemon and mineral flavors. Less pliant than the Montée de Tonnerre but I like its light touch--and there's no shortage of density here.