2012 Brunello di Montalcino
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The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino of Cupano is the total package, strutting its modern leanings yet doing so with impeccable style. Sugar-dusted black cherries, plums, allspice and hints of ginger cookie form a sweetly seductive bouquet. On the palate, this takes a more serious turn, silky and energetic, yet savory, with mineral-tinged red berries and balsamic nuances that give way to tobacco toward the close. The 2012 leaves a gentle coating of rounded tannins that today have taken a backseat to its brilliant fruit, as it slowly fades with rosy inner florals and a hint of hard candies. The Cupano style, which includes refinement in 228-liter French oak, about 25% new, really complemented the character of 2012. In the end, readers looking to understand how proper oak management can succeed in Montalcino owes it to themselves to find a mature bottle such as this.
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Walter Speller
Ian D'Agata
Altre recensioni e punteggi
‘Lots of snow at the end of January and February. Pruning in March and a late budbreak but the delay was diminished by the very warm May. The entire season was very dry, but there were plenty of water reserves due to the snow which had filled up the water tables. Low pH and lots of acidity but with a generous yield.’ First year in which no new oak, only second- and third-passage barriques were used, which continued for the next three years. Deep, dark ruby. Impressive concentration on the nose and with hints of cigar box, graphite and the tingle of black pepper. Still compact. Succulent cherry fruit and deep, tasty tannins. This might be less impressive than 2011 but is certainly more elegant even if it doesn't exactly lack in concentration. Fresh and supple with an impressive layer of chewy, gravelly tannins, like the stones in their vineyard, tying in the generous fruit. Truly hedonistic in its pure fruit concentration, and almost Barolo-like in its structure. (WS)
Camigliano. Darker and bluer than most – mid crimson. Interesting, very distinctive nose. Sweet and not that typical. 100% new oak. Not sure it’s what I’m looking for from Brunello but it’s certainly interesting. Walter is a big fan – but admits its modernist credentials. (JR)
Tasted blind. Concentrated mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Soft, ripe nose with hints of oak and dried cherry, but not open by far. Gorgeous, tangy, cherry-fruit palate and lots of grainy, ripe tannins. Polished and a little modernist, pulled off with great aplomb. (WS)