2015 Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots

Pale, green-tinged yellow. Subtle, discreet nose offers hints of citrus fruits, spices, white pepper and minerals. Then almost shockingly massive and powerful in the mouth, boasting bulletproof citrus and white peach flavors energized by harmonious acidity (but barely four grams per liter, according to Didier Séguier). More robust and masculine than the Preuses and drier and more bracing on the long finish, this sappy wine needs time to harmonize. But as with all of these 2015s, there's nothing hard about this grand cru.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote de Bouguerots was the standout wine when I tasted the range of William Fevre from barrel. Now in bottle, the nose has closed down, but there remains a brooding intensity here and superb mineralité. The palate is very well balanced with a touch of orange zest and quince on the entry. There is a keen line of acidity here and quite a powerful finish that lingers long in the mouth. Give this 3 or 4 years in bottle and it should offer another 10 years of drinking pleasure.

Milky dairy character on the nose, crab apple fruit and whip-smart acid on the finish. Smooth, glossy texture. Will doubtless develop well – though hasn’t perhaps got the full ageing potential of their Bougros. (RH)