2013 Adarmando Bianco

The deep, golden-hued 2013 Bianco Adarmando is dark and rich in the glass, yet packed full of character. Citrus-tinged peach and musky pear give way to dusty florals and hints of petrol. This is round and enveloping, yet it has a core of bright acidity to balance, as mineral-tinged orchard fruits lead into tropical inner florals. The 2013 leaves a lemony concentration throughout the sweet and sour finale. With my eyes closed, this could be a top-shelf Austrian Riesling.

Current vintage – released July 2015. An intriguing combination of ripe fruit and spicy minerality, even a light note of celery seed. Sometimes depth of fruit precludes minerality but not here. With this young wine there is more grapefruit than orange, the spice is still there and it is full of intoxicating flavour but still very fresh and very persistent. Intense freshness and everything is coiled up and needing a little more time but all there in embryo. Wow. Three days later: this has the impact of a top-quality sweet wine even though it is dry. Stunning in its intensity and freshness. (JH)

An intriguing combination of ripe fruit and spicy minerality, even a light note of celery seed. Sometimes depth of fruit precludes minerality but not here. With this young wine there is more grapefruit than orange, the spice is still there and it is full of intoxicating flavour but still very fresh and very persistent. Intense freshness and everything is coiled up and needing a little more time but all there in embryo. Wow. Three days later: this has the impact of a top-quality sweet wine even though it is dry. Stunning in its intensity and freshness. (JH) Feb 2016, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2017-2027