2006 Meursault Poruzot

The Jobard 2006 Meursault Poruzots smells of distilled plum and toasted nuts. Juicy yellow plum and peach are underlain by nut oils and wet stone on the palate. Here is another wine of this collection to display unusual breadth and softness for a Jobard Meursault. The finish is impressively long but with a hint of heat. I would not assume that this will benefit from more than 6-8 years cellaring. High-toned, refined, bright, almost intricately complex and mineral, as well as gripping in finish, the 2005 is in another league. Remarkably, Antoine Jobard (who took over from his father in 2004) relates that he did not begin harvesting until the 23rd of September (two days later than in 2005), and while there is no negative botrytis tone in evidence, and he asserts that none of the wines exceeded 13.5% alcohol, this collection shows the effects of late harvest. Never bottled before 18 months (more often later, though not in the forward 2006 vintage) the Jobard wines were still in barrel when last I tasted them (hence the wider point spread). Every wine is given virtually identical elevage, including around 20% new wood; and none receive batonnage. “I’m guarding the classic style,” says Antoine Jobard, with reference to the wines that made his father’s long-standing reputation for refined, at times understated, and prodigiously age-worthy Meursault. The 2005s here took well over a year to ferment to dryness. Those I tasted from bottle easily eclipsed the corresponding 2006s. The Jobard 2004s are also very strong, and Antoine Jobard believes they will be for drinking after the 2005s (which in my estimation means well after the 2006s!) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; also imported by Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400