2014 Haut Brion

The 2014 Haut-Brion is moving into its drinking plateau on the nose, which is now entirely open. Tertiary red fruit mixes with fennel, iron filings and a touch of Moroccan spice. Very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. It's a little sweeter and, as I commented before, a little medicinal in style, with hints of aniseed developing towards the finish. This is a mellow Haut-Brion, and it is very well crafted, but is there a gap between this and other high-performing Pessac-Léognan wines? Not in this vintage. (NM)

Tasted blind. Deep garnet. Plenty of black fruit, including a leafy note (Cab Franc?). Quite oaky on the palate and a little leaner than I expected from the nose but there’s real tannic refinement here and excellent balance. (JH)

Haut-Brion is more concentrated and intense than Mission Haut-Brion, more bedded down even at 10 years old, and somehow delivers an extra punch. Absolutely a materclass in controlled exuberance, this has concentrated cigar box, graphite and cocoa bean, touches of mandarin peel, bitter espresso and fennel, well-controlled tannic frame but so well delivered, it's hard to resist. Jean-Philippe Delmas estate director, Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director.