2010 Chablis Les Clos

The 2010 Chablis Les Clos is stunningly beautiful in this vintage. It represents everything Clos is supposed to be; silky, subtle, intense and weightless. Nothing in particular stands out, instead the Clos impresses for its fabulous balance and sheer pedigree. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Domaine Laroche is back in the US market after an absence of several years. The house style is marked by a search for considerable textural richness, which makes these some of the deeper, more opulent wines made in Chablis. Over the last few years, Domaine Laroche has begun to focus on organic viticulture and increased the use of indigenous yeasts, both of which are rare in Chablis. All of the Domaine Laroche wines are bottled under screwcap, also rare in Chablis, especially at this level. Winemaker Gregory Viennois told me the 2011 harvest started on September 12, towards the later side for the village. Viennois noted that potential alcohols and acidities were quite similar for both 2010 and 2011, which is unusual among the top domaines in Chablis. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Good bright pale yellow. Austere nose offers scents of mint, minerals and oatmeal. All sappy, citric cut and crushed stone now and virtually impossible to drink. But this extremely backward, classic Clos boasts terrific purity and inner-palate energy. Finishes very dry, with a piercing grapefruity quality. Much harder to taste today than the younger 2011, but built for a long life in bottle.

The fruit is almost dominant here – hallelujah! (Makes the tasting a bit easier, anyway.) This magnificent wine should be approachable for quite a long time. Real extract almost masks the astringency. (JR)