1996 Omadhaun & Poltroon

The blockbuster whites Sine Qua Non is now producing are a blend of Roussanne and Chardonnay, with the former varietal dominating the blend in both 1996 and 1997.||The massive, dry 1996 Omadhaun Poltron's 15.2% alcohol is well-concealed beneath this full-bodied wine's glycerin and unctuous texture. The knock-out nose of honeyed citrus and rose petals is followed by a chewy, remarkably pure, dry wine oozing with extract. I suspect it will become even more civilized with 12-18 months of bottle age, but I would opt for drinking it over the next 2-3 years.||All the Sine Qua Non wines reviewed in this segment are bottled with virtually no fining, and rarely any filtration.||Readers are advised to get on the mailing list.||Tel. (805) 649-8901; fax (805) 640-1230|| Wine Advocate.December, 1998

Fairly pale color. Oak, herb oils, mint, ginger, grilled nuts and lemon thyme on the complex nose; showed distinctly Northern Rhone-like notes of dried fruits, hazelnut and honey as it opened in the glass. Thick, ripe and oaky in the mouth, with the glyceral texture of a big white Hermitage. But can't quite hide its 15.2% alcohol, and finishes with a slight burn, along with a note of hazelnut. Not as deep or complex as the extraordinary 1995 Bride bottling, but fascinating nonetheless.