2013 Corton Charlemagne

(this wine includes the fruit that normally goes into the Quintessence bottling as the crop was cut by 60% to 80% by hail; along with the rest of the Girardin grand crus, it was bottled in early May, or less than a month before my visit): A bit less pristine on the nose than the Chevalier-Montrachet, offering scents of lemon drop and peach syrup. Plush, sweet, thick and very concentrated, with a powerful rocky character currently dominating the middle palate. The stony quality carries through to the thick finish, which is slightly bitter but not austere or vegetal.

(there will be no separate Quintessence bottling in 2013 owing to losses from hail; the Quintessence juice comprises 60% of this cuvee, as Girardin purchased only a bit of Corton-Charlemagne fruit that was ripe enough; malo finished and sulfited): Bright yellow-green. Pure aromas of peach, flint and nutmeg lifted by white flowers. Sweet on entry, then a bit dry-edged in the middle owing to the combination of strong acidity and citrus peel and stone flavors. Some nutty sweet oak in evidence. This tactile, stony wine finishes with a touch of youthful harshness. The pH here is a low 3.16, according to enologist Germain.