2006 Barolo Runcot

(this spent 45 days on its skins, and was then aged entirely in new French barriques for 40 months with minimal racking; Grasso's other two Barolos are aged in 25-liter Slavonian oak casks): Good deep red. Expressive aromas of cherry, redcurrant, raspberry, violet, mocha and spicy oak, with savory and leathery nuances. Broad, dense and very dry, with lovely inner-palate minerality. There's excellent ripeness here but today the finish of this uncompromisingly dry, classic Barolo is cut off by its big, dusty tannins. "This vintage was second-best to 2008," noted Gianluca Grasso, "with 96% phenolic maturity."

The 2006 Barolo Riserva Runcot is a huge, structured wine bursting at the seams with fruit. The French oak (100% new) is beautifully integrated. Today the wine is understandably quite reticent but its pedigree is hard to miss. Flowers, licorice and minerals linger on the finish. The 2006 Runcot needs time, most likely lots of it. Let me just say I can't wait to taste this powerhouse once it has had more time in bottle. It is a dazzling effort.

The 2006 Barolo Riserva Runcot is a huge, structured wine bursting at the seams with fruit. The French oak (100% new) is beautifully integrated. Today the wine is understandably quite reticent but its pedigree is hard to miss. Flowers, licorice and minerals linger on the finish. The 2006 Runcot needs time, most likely lots of it. Let me just say I can’t wait to taste this powerhouse once it has had more time in bottle. It is a dazzling effort. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Elio Grasso remains the most under-appreciated of Piedmont’s top growers. Make no mistake about it, these wines can easily hold their own with the best from the region. When one factors in price, these are easily some of the finest ageworthy wines on the planet. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; tel. (503) 289-9600; Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159