2006 Chablis Chapelot

(just six barrels made, from 50-year-old vines) Precise, metallic, high-pitched aromas of lemon and stone. Very pure and structured, with tangy acidity and outstanding citric cut for the year. Quite tight today and less expressive and refined than the Montee de Tonnerre but this penetrating, bound-up wine boasts superb vinosity that's rare for the vintage. This will need patience.