2001 Vin San Giusto

The 2001 Vin San Giusto is not a wine for the faint of heart. This huge, opulent wine coats the palate with masses of tar, smoke, tea leaves, spices, prunes and dried figs in a weighty, super-concentrated style. The wine possesses a level of staggering richness and density that is equaled by just a few wines in Italy. Vin San Giusto is 90% Malvasia and 10% Trebbiano that was air-dried for 140 days. The wine then spent 6 years in chestnut barrels of various sizes, a process that resulted in the evaporation of approximately 40% of the initial wine! This looks to be an immortal dessert wine. It is best opened at least several hours and up to a day prior to serving. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2029. My tasting last year with proprietor Luca Martini di Cigala was an eye-opener. Aside from his humility – which always leaves a deep impression – I was simply blown away by the quality of the 2006s, which were in barrel at the time. His 2006 Percarlo was glorious that day, but it won’t be released until next year. In the meantime, these new releases should keep the estate’s fans, of which I am one, more than happy. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The Sangiovese-based 2001 San Giusto is the best that producer Pierluigi Bonti has yet made. Sweet plum and red currant fruit and a very well balanced oaky spiciness are followed by supple and succulent flavors with much depth and continuity. Drink: 2005-2015. Importer: Steven Berardi, Elizabeth Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 394-0691