2004 Pommard Grands Epenots

Good ruby-red. Reduced, inky nose hints at licorice. Then impressively rich and concentrated, with real power to the currant, iron and tobacco flavors; one senses the red clay soil here. This has the sheer stuffing (the wine is carrying 14.5% alcohol) to handle its serious, powerful tannins, which arrive late. There's a peppery nuance on the finish. Confuron says this will be at its best in 15 years-"or drink it with truffles in 20 years." (Incidentally, I retasted the hugely rich, sappy 2003 version of this wine, and can report that it is in the process of closing down.)