2008 Chablis Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes

Senses of clarity and openness in the Laroche 2008 Chablis Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes make for a striking contrast with the corresponding Vaillons. Kiwi, lime, and white currant dominate in the nose and on an exuberantly luscious, silken palate with hints of nettle, juniper berry, and tart currant skin conveying finishing invigoration. This impressively persistent, rather Sauvignon-like Chablis (a substantial portion of which comes from the Homme Mort) should merit at least half a dozen years of attention. The Languedoc negociant and multiple estate-owner Jean Jean has bought-out Michel Laroche’s domaine, but for now at least, Laroche and winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye remain, and the quality and style of their 2008s is entirely consistent with that of other recent vintages. Incidentally, Laroche – a pioneer in France with utilizing screwcap closures – has switched to a saranex liner that de la Bourdonnaye says is designed to and does mitigate tendencies toward reduction that he and his team (and occasionally I) have noted in some past cuvees. Given the Sauvignon-like aspects of many of the 2008s here, I had wondered (prior to learning of this closure change) about continued hints of reduction in a couple of instances here as well. The lees were stirred actively to promote textural richness, which indeed most of these wines impressively exhibit, and there was some light chaptalization of musts that for the most part came in closer to 12% than to 13% potential alcohol. Importer: Canon Wines, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 394-6454

Expressive, nuanced nose combines lemon, truffle, iodine and vanilla. Broad but quite closed in the mouth, communicating a sense of power but little in the way of primary fruit today. With aeration this wine displayed deep underlying stone fruit character and a very dry, mineral-driven finish. I'd like to come back to this one in two years. De la Bourdonnaye describes Fourchaume as "a very powerful vineyard," and noted that prior to 2005 this wine was done in barriques

(I tasted a blend of two large old casks) Pungent aromas of grapefruit, citrus peel and flowers. In a distinctly richer, sweeter style than the Vaillons, with spice and banana notes currently hiding underlying minerality. Quite showy already. At once silky and powerful, with sound structure. Finishes with lingering sweetness. De la Bourdonnaye noted that Laroche's Fourchaumes has been "less fat and heavy" since 2005, as the estate is harvesting these vines a bit earlier and being more careful with batonnage and the selection of barrels.