2007 Meursault Les Cras

From centenarian vines that Boillot says he suspects are the oldest in their village, his 2007 Meursault Les Cras mysteriously smells of white truffle, quarry dust, and iris. A concentrated stony essence allied to citrus and bitter-sweet liquid floral essences fills the mouth and carries sufficient textural tenderness to keep the mineral dominance here from turning austere. This wine will certainly give terroir fundamentalists a soapbox – or rather, a block of chalk – on which to stand in claiming a seemingly osmotic influence of rock on roots, fruit, wine, and taste. It will serve for half a dozen years or more of fascination, questions of flavor origin aside. As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724