1993 Bahans Haut Brion

Since the late eighties, Bahans-Haut-Brion has offered a strong case as one of Bordeaux's most noteworthy second wines. Second wines should be a good introduction to the style of the property's top wine, but often they only serve as vehicles for dumping any wine not considered good enough to market under the estate's principle name. However, readers can hit gold with some second wines in specific vintages. I have long felt that the 1982 Forts de Latour and 1989 Bahans-Haut-Brion are the best second wines I have ever tasted. Add to those, recent efforts from Leoville-Las-Cases under the Clos du Marquis label, and the beautiful 1995 Pavillon de Chateau Margaux, and readers have a bevy of second wines that offer outstanding value for the price. Bahans-Haut-Brion has been on a hot streak. Selection has been very strict, with wine considered not good enough for Bahans being declassified and sold in bulk. A complex wine, with some Haut-Brion character (a tobacco, earth, sweet curranty nose is evident), this dark ruby-colored 1993 will never possess the weight and aging ability of the grand vin, but it offers a charming, supple texture, textbook, northern Graves aromatics, fine ripeness and spice, low acidity, and a soft finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Feb 1997, www.robertparker.com