2009 St Aubin Blanc La Chatenieres

(from very steep 50-year-old vines facing full south): Bright, pale yellow. Vibrant aromas of lemon, fresh herbs and white pepper. Fruitier and more approachable than the Murgers des Dents de Chien, with more flesh to coat its underlying calcaire . Lemon and orange flavors are nicely framed by ripe, easygoing acidity. The fruit carries impressively on the long aftertaste. I wouldn't be in any rush to drink this.

The 2009 St. Aubin Clos de la Chatenière is a marvelous, complete wine that brings together the richness of the year, with floral and mineral-tinged notes that help preserve a measure of freshness and energy. A textured, creamy finish rounds out this finessed, totally compelling wine. Clos de la Chatenière is a limestone rich site. The vines here are 40-50 years old and the slope is a full 45 degrees, which means you have to be in excellent shape just to walk it!

The 2009 St. Aubin Clos de la Chateniere is a marvelous, complete wine that brings together the richness of the year, with floral and mineral-tinged notes that help preserve a measure of freshness and energy. A textured, creamy finish rounds out this finessed, totally compelling wine. Clos de la Chateniere is a limestone rich site. The vines here are 40-50 years old and the slope is a full 45 degrees, which means you have to be in excellent shape just to walk it! Anticipated maturity: 2014+. This is a fabulous set of wines from Olivier Lamy. From top to bottom, I can't think of a single wine I wouldn't be thrilled to drink. Lamy began harvesting on September 7. The 2009s spent approximately twelve months in barrel and six months in steel. I also tasted through a number of the 2010s. Some of the wines were still in malo, but those that were not, including the Clos de Meix, Derriere Chez Edouard, En Remilly and Chatenieres, were all very promising. Simply put, I can't recommend these wines highly enough. A Becky Wasserman Selection, -Le Serbet,- imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404