2009 Chablis Mont de Milieu

The 2009 Chablis Mont de Milieu is a decidedly extroverted, flashy wine. Here the aromas and flavors come close to a tropical, exotic dimension of expression. Layers of fruit are woven together beautifully in the open, textured finish. This is likely to be a relatively early-maturing wine, but it will deliver plenty of enjoyment over at least the next few years. The Mont de Milieu was aged in stainless steel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Billaud-Simon is now run by Bernard Billaud, following the exit of his nephew, Samuel Billaud, last year. The 2009 harvest began in late September and ran into early October, quite late by Chablis standards in this vintage. Not surprisingly, the Billaud-Simon 2009s are built on an expression of generous fruit that shows the ripeness and softness of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning in September, 2010. As is quite common, the premier and grand crus saw a longer elevage, here roughly 16-18 months. The last of the grand crus were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted most of the 2010s from tank and barrel, including several lots of the Petit Chablis and Chablis that had just been racked and were impossible to read. The estate began harvesting the 2010s on October 1st. It was a year in which maturation happened only at the very end of the season. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Very ripe, exotic aromas of pineapple, mango, lichee and spices. A sweet, lightly saline fruit bomb, and more vibrant than the nose suggests. Densely packed and concentrated wine, finishing with a hint of licorice and a restrained sweetness. Firmer than it appeared to be a year ago but still an essentially supple style. This will get honeyed with time in bottle.

Lean and green and very lively. Good stuff! Some richness but sufficient energy too. (JR)