2008 Echezeaux

The 2008 Echézeaux Grand Cru is beginning to show signs of maturation, with a little bricking on the rim. It has a leafy bouquet, hints of stewed black tea and damp moss, more advanced than I would have expected after almost a decade. The palate is well balanced with a light tobacco stain on the red fruit, becoming more cohesive in the second half with just a little warmth on the aftertaste. I would drink this in the near future - I am not totally convinced that it is a long-term proposition. Tasted at the Bistro Roch in Nuits Saint-Georges.

The 2008 Echezeaux is a noticeable step up in quality from the Vosne-Romanee. This is a decidedly rich, powerful Echezeaux endowed with considerable muscle. The aromas and flavors build beautifully towards a dazzling, harmonious finish. The 2008 is a big Echezeaux that could use further time in the cellar. There is plenty of underlying structure to support a long life in the cellar. The 2008 is seriously impressive. If any wine can be said to represent ‘value’ among the Domaine’s 2008s, the Echezeaux is it. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. tasted the 2008s in bottle in late June 2011 after having gone through the 2010s from barrel. Aubert de Villaine describes 2008 as a difficult vintage with a lot of rain. Botrytis was an issue and the vineyards required constant attention. On September 14 the weather changed dramatically. A steady north wind dried out the grapes and concentrated sugars quickly, which also reduced the size of the berries. A further selection of fruit lowered yields to an even greater extent, resulting in overall production that is as much as 50% lower than normal for the Domaine. As for the wines, they are magnificent in my view, but will require considerable patience. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661