2006 Corton Charlemagne

Latour’s estate-bottled 2006 Corton Charlemagne displays lime peel, resin, and chalk dust in the nose; its sappy, pit- and citrus-fruit dominated palate resists the wine’s 100% new wood well; and it finishes invigoratingly with an extended reprise of citrus, resin, and chalk. This should keep well for at least 6-8 years. Latour’s very old vines in this site gave their last in 2004, but the average age of vines now is still a respectable 30 years. Admirable concentration and clarity characterize the somewhat firmer and more static 2005. Louis-Fabrice Latour and oenologue Jean-Charles Thomas presented a 2006 collection that displayed the opulent richness that one would anticipate from such a ripe vintage, and from the Latour house style. Sometimes these wines want a bit for clarity, definition and distinctiveness – occasionally they are rather obviously marked by dairy flavors from their malolactic conversion – but the best of them have much to offer. Since I did not have opportunity to include in my issue 179 report notes on the Chablis bottlings of Simmonet-Febvre – a domaine Latour purchased in 2003 (and which also bottles some lovely sparkling wines) – I have made note of them here. Louis Latour has numerous importers throughout the U.S.

Cask sample. Fine, delicately spiced and slightly nutty citrus. Inviting subtlety. Much less subtle on the palate – broad sweetly spiced oak dominates at the moment but underneath there’s a tight mineral streak and just enough freshness. (JH)