2009 Corton Charlemagne

The 2009 Corton-Charlemagne is magnificent. It possesses remarkable detail and nuance. This is a decidedly elegant Corton-Charlemagne that impresses for its elegance. It is cool, inward and precise from start to finish. Colin-Morey works with two parcels, one on the Aloxe side, the other on the Pernand side. Both were harvested on the same day, vinified together and aged in Chassin barrels, one of them new. Today the oak is a bit prominent, but it should integrate in another few years. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 343-4054

Bracing nose combines lemon, liquid stone, menthol and wild herbs. Very intense but light on its feet, with a slight tannic bitterness that reminded me of a red wine. The citrus and botanical herb flavors are braced by strong acidity. Very backward now but already shows outstanding incipient complexity and builds impressively on the back half. Seems deeper than the 2008.