1997 Corton Charlemagne

Ripe, very ripe, as one can see by how ripe gold it is. A bit too ripe, admits Jean-François. Muscular, says Pierre Troisgros. Quite a wet summer. Much older than any other wine, without the structure of some younger vintages. Very soft and ripe. Definitely needs drinking now, A little hot and brutal. I wonder whether it would have tasted better a few years ago when the acidity was more obvious? Big in terms of alcohol and a bit loose. Even a little hint of decay. Rich and if one had the bottle in isolation, I suspect one would respect it, but in this company it is definitely the laggard. More alcohol than real concentration. Slightly hot finish. This was the last year they used a gold label – changed to a white one that reflects Jean-François' father's. (JR)

The Corton-Charlemagne exhibits super-ripe buttery pears, apples, and traces of tropical fruits in its nose. This is a huge wine, packed with layers of grilled nuts, peaches, almonds, and sweet white fruits that saturate the palate. It is full-bodied, expansive, and immensely opulent, however, it appears to have trouble fully integrating its alcohol and finishes on a warm and slightly austere note. Drink it between 2001 and 2008. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.