2005 Corton Charlemagne

Very, very clean and aristocratic. Not as sweet as many. Not quite as full-bodied as most Grands Crus but tight and restrained. A Grand Cru cadet(younger brother) but trying admirably hard. (JR)

Well-integrated if not invisible wood treatment frames the green apple and white pear nose that is at once airy, reserved and cool and this sense of remove continues onto the rich, full and powerful flavors that are structured and textured while culminating in an explosive finish that is flat out hugely long. There is a powerful acid spine that is completely buffered by ample dry extract that this should age well.

Reduced, leesy nose hints at crushed stone and mint. Then superripe and stuffed with fruit, but with lovely structural support to the brisk lemon-lime and stone flavors. Highly concentrated, dense wine that finishes thick, dusty, ripe and long, if still a bit blurred by baby fat. Tricky to taste today, as it's not yet as pristine as some of Javillier's Meursault cuvees, but it boasts excellent material and balance and promises to be the best vintage yet for this bottling.