2006 Corton Charlemagne

(at the end of its malo) Ripe aromas of apple, pear and clove. Densely packed and tactile, with superb richness and concentration and a deep core of spice. Best today on the finish, which features soil-driven flavors of crushed stone and menthol. Not a particularly austere style of Corton-Charlemagne but this will be better for extended cellaring.

Boillot boldly presented his 2006 Corton-Charlemagne after his rich grand crus from around Montrachet - presumably a measure of his confidence in its quality. Fresh lime, high-toned herbal distillates, kirsch, and brown spices in the nose lead to a cool, refreshing, herbal, chalky palate impression and a finish of incredible grip: chalky, saline, savory, and with faintly bitter hints of cherry pit. This is very Chablis-like, but in its striking mineral expression and its brightness, more like a super premier cru Chablis than a grand cru. Once again, Boillot has managed to capture an energy, concentration, and finishing penetration that are exceptional even by the standards of this outstanding vintage. I anticipate this being worth following for a dozen years, if not longer. ||Henri Boillot's ambitious and burgeoning negociant arm is made up in large part of many small bottling lots, representing remarkably many of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. -Precision and minerality- are words he offers to explain his intentions even in a vintage as ripe as 2006, and for the most part he walks the accompanying walk, with wines (largely assembled in tank) that showed more generously and expressively than did Boillot's estate wines on the same day. Wine Advocate.December, 2008